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I know “natural” has been impeccably branded. You can’t separate the word from fresh spring fields, youthful goodness, rays of sunshine. Natural ingredients seem to have no limit to what they can do: Better skin. Personal enlightenment. Saving the planet! What can’t natural ingredients do?
I completely understand the appeal of this myth, because it would be so convenient if it were true!
For starters, I wouldn’t have to spend hours researching skincare ingredients and delivering on my findings. The simplicity of this myth (combined with some gorgeous product packaging) is almost impossible for consumers to resist. And market researchers know this. Many natural skincare brands simply exploit our wishful thinking.
For better or for worse, skincare just doesn’t work that way.
The truth is that there are just as many natural ingredients that are bad for your skin as there are synthetic ingredients that are good for your skin.
Some obvious examples are poison ivy and snake venom. Did you know that mosquito’s saliva (anticoagulant if you want to be fancy about it) is a natural ingredient? You’d think an awareness of these things would put the natural myth to bed.
When dealing with natural ingredients, if any one compound is found to be bad for your skin, then that cancels out any potential benefit from the rest.
Let’s take cinnamon as an example. I used to think cinnamon was just cinnamon. But cinnamon contains cinnamaldehyde, cinnamic acid, and cinnamate. If one of these compounds is irritating (which it is), you can cross cinnamon off the list.
The good news is that you don’t have to compromise. There are TONS of ingredients, natural or not, that are nothing but good for your skin! No harmful compounds whatsoever. And smart skincare brands include these and only these in their products. Regardless of the trending myth-du-jour.
Natural Ingredients in Disguise
Why not just extract the good compounds from a natural ingredient and leave the rest? Great question! There are plenty of ingredients that are exactly that. Sadly, they’re often unpronounceable and give off a chemically-vibe. Here are a few examples so you can really see what I mean:
Tocopheryl acetate is the ester of acetic acid and tocopherol, which is a group of Vitamin E compounds which are found in vegetable oils, nuts, and fish.
Bromelain, which sounds like a name brand drug, is a skin-soothing, anti-inflammatory extract from pineapple (applying pure pineapple to your skin will give you an acid burn over time).
Eicosapentaenoic acid is another great example of a scary name with an innocent meaning. Eicosapentaenoic acid is an omega-3 fatty acid that is derived from salmon and is good for the skin.
The sad thing is that these 100% awesome ingredients are overlooked because they look “unnatural.” Anything chemical-sounding is so off trend.
The bottom line is that “natural” is no indication of harmlessness or effectiveness. Below, I will bust 10 natural skin care ingredients that many still believe are good for their skin:
Myth #1: Peppermint
The thought of peppermint instantly perks me up! And ingesting peppermint in moderation is safe. After all, it’s a common flavoring agent and a treatment for nausea and digestive upsets.
Bust: Menthol = Drying/Irritating
On the skin, menthol (which is the alcohol in peppermint) is irritating. Have you ever noticed that you have to reapply a minty lip balm about a trillion times? That’s because menthol is drying out your lips.
If I could sum up the goal of skincare it would be: simply reducing inflammation as much as possible. If you do only that, you’re ahead of the game.
Any irritation of the skin causes inflammation, which is not good. So peppermint’s irritating effects cancel out any of its benefits.
The first goal of skincare is to reduce inflammation as much as possible.
Now, some people say that they aren’t bothered by peppermint in the least. But dermatological research shows that too many people react to peppermint on some level. So my question would be, why take the risk when there are so many better alternatives?
Myth #2: Rose Oil
Roses seem to have an alter ego. They are innocent in their beauty but they’re dangerously thorny. The same follows for rose oil.
Bust: Irritating:
Rosehip oil or rosemary oil are similar in name and both equally good for your skin. So let’s clear them off the table - it’s only rose oil that is irritating. I can’t comment on the effectiveness of ingesting rose oil, but I can tell you that putting it on your skin is highly irritating. It also has no known benefit to your skin. That’s right: Zero documented benefit and a known risk. Rose oil is another one to avoid, even though it sounds pretty.
Myth #3: Lavender
There is something so transporting about lavender. I like to pick sprigs of it from my mother’s garden. When I crush it between my fingers and smell it, for that moment, the world stops and I’m at peace.
I hover around lavender at the farmer’s market and I mist it on my pillows before bed. And, I’ll confess, I think Lavender would be a pretty name for a girl.
But enough of my love affair with lavender.
Lavender’s therapeutic properties end at the skin. It’s a member of the mint family and is known to be irritating, as well. As a general rule of thumb, if you can smell the lavender in a cosmetic product, then it contains a high enough quantity to cause irritation. An even better rule is to avoid it altogether.
Bust: Lavender Blocks Hormones
Say what?? Did you know that lavender acts as an endocrine disruptor in the body? That means that it interrupts the natural flow of hormones in the body.
Lavender oil is linked to pre-pubertal gynecomasia, a disorder of the endocrine system that results in increased breast tissue growth in males. Yikes! According to a study in the New England Journal of Medicine, lavender oil, “modulated the expression of the estrogen-regulated endogenous genes” (J Med 2007; Feb 1, 2007). This study focused only on lavender’s effects on young men. But I’d say it’s best to assume that any hormone disruption in males is a red flag for females, too.
Did you know that lavender acts as an endocrine disruptor in the body? That means that it interrupts the natural flow of hormones in the body.
Knowing this, I just can’t get over the irony that lavender is trending as a treatment for PMS. Many of the worst symptoms of PMS are the result of hormones being already out of whack. So I think we can agree that adding a skin-irritating endocrine disruptor to the mix is the last thing that would help.
We’re better off celebrating lavender’s incredible beauty and taking in its soothing aroma only.
Myth #4: Witch Hazel
Witch Hazel has been used by Native Americans for centuries to treat everything from itching skin and sore muscles to ulcers and internal bleeding. It also has a unique story behind its name. Twigs from the Witch Elm tree were used as divining rods, an ancient method of locating water underground. The mysterious method of locating water might have lent the name of witch to Witch Hazel, although I cannot confirm this definitively. I love learning these kinds of things! I also love reading the dictionary. Feel free to roll your eyes.
High Tannins = Irritating
You’d think Witch Hazel’s long history of home-use proves that it’s harmless and effective; however, it has a high tannin content. Tannins act as astringents, which means that they constrict blood vessels. Tannins are also antioxidants that, in high quantities, can be very harsh on your skin. Yes, even high amounts of tannins can be too much of a good thing! Witch Hazel becomes most harmful when it’s included in products like toners that deliver high-tannin content on a daily basis. This increases the likelihood of prolonged irritation which can be detrimental to your skin long-term. Also, alcohol is added during Witch Hazel’s distillation process, and we all know that alcohol is known for drying out your skin. Witch Hazel is marketed as ancient wisdom. However, as with many ancient remedies, older does not necessarily mean better! Witch Hazel’s benefits don’t outweigh the risks of sensitization from tannins and dryness from alcohol. There are plenty of better options. Sea buckthorn, for example, offers all of Witch Hazel’s astringent benefits without any of its risks.
Myth #5: Anise
Anise, or aniseed, is a plant that has pretty, star-shaped seed pods. Its seeds are similar in flavor to fennel and licorice. If you’ve tried Jagermeister, you might have detected a note of anise blended in there (assuming you didn’t spit it out!) Many cosmetic companies claim that the use of anise in their skin care has anti-oxidant benefits, as well as adding fragrance to any cosmetic product.
Bust: PhotosensitizingResearch shows that anise is irritating and photosensitizing to the skin. Photosensitivity is an increased sensitivity to sunlight that results in a variety of skin reactions including sunburn, rash, and itching. Ouch! No, thank you!
Research indicates that anise is irritating and photosensitizing when applied to the skin.
That’s a pretty sinister risk, if you ask me. I don’t see how anise’s beneficial properties (if there are any) make it worth it, and seem kind of contradictory to me; anise is capable of being harmful to your skin by way of sun damage, yet cosmetic companies claim it helps the anti-aging process. If you’re like me and you love the taste of black licorice, then anise’s wonderful flavor can be enjoyed in foods, liquors, and teas, but let’s leave it out of skincare. Myth #6: Frankincense
Frankincense extract or frankincense oil is the same precious frankincense of New Testament lore. It has all of the intrigue and ancient mystery required for that “natural ingredient” spin. It’s an invaluable buzz word on any label.
Bust: Nothing to Gain
What it has in ancient folklore, it lacks in benefits for the skin. Frankincense oil supposedly reduces skin imperfections. But I can’t find one shred of evidence to support that claim. Speaking strictly of topical application of frankincense oil, there are no clinical trials to date (2018) that show any measurable benefits. There are; however, studies that show that frankincense is mildly sensitizing to the skin.The effects of frankincense on the skin are relatively neutral. So if you’re drawn to Frankincense’s appeal, you might think, “What have I really got to lose?” Probably nothing. Mild sensitization at worst. But you also have nothing to gain. Frankincense appears to be no better than putting nothing at all on the skin. It is the epitome of the kind of “feel good versus do good” ingredient that is gaining credibility in the natural skincare world.
Myth #7: Lemongrass
The thought of lemongrass instantly perks me up. It’s a thick grass with a unique lemony scent that is fabulous in teas and aromatic essential oils. Perfumes, deodorants and cleaning products often contain lemongrass. While I do find its scent uplifting, lemongrass’s popularity is not proof that it’s good for the skin.
Bust: Limonene and Citral = Too Much Risk
Lemongrass contains limonene and citral, compounds that can be very irritating when applied to the skin. The biggest issue with limonene is that it can not only be irritating (and not just to the skin, but to your eyes and lungs), but there is a high risk of immunotoxicity/allergy, and if not oxidized can be extremely harmful. So yes, limonene is a natural ingredient, but it has little to offer in terms of benefit with plenty of risk. So, in light of that, let’s say mmmmkay byyye to lemongrass. Myth #8: Thyme Oil
I feel fancy whenever a recipe calls for fresh sprigs of thyme. It’s been used to flavor cuisine for ages, but recent research also suggest that thyme oil has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties beyond its wonderful flavor (Flavor and Fragrance Journal, September 2015)
Bust: Unsafe
Wouldn’t it be great if you could deliver all of thyme oil’s goodness to your skin by putting in on your face? I wish it were that easy! But the body’s digestive system works differently than the skin. Many ingredients that are safe to ingest are not necessarily safe to put on your skin. Thyme oil is one of them.
Many ingredients that are safe to ingest are not necessarily safe to put on your skin.
Calendula extract, beet root extract, and curcuma longa root are some alternatives to thyme oil that can deliver antioxidant benefits through the skin.
So the question becomes, “Why bother?” I’d prefer to celebrate thyme oil’s goodness in my tummy and keep it off my skin.
Myth #9: Colloidal Silver
Colloidal silver is silver that has been ground up and suspended in a solution. It is touted with every health benefit including healing wounds, treating pink eye and sinusitis, and fighting pneumonia.
Bust: Argyria = Gray SkinTrue, some compounds in silver have disinfecting properties. However, prolonged application of silver can cause silver toxicity that turns your skin blueish gray, a condition called Argyria. I’ll admit this risk is rare. But really, any risk is still too high. There are safe alternatives to treating skin wounds, pink eye, sinusitis, and any other ailment colloidal silver allegedly heals.
Strictly in terms of skincare, I have not found any measurable benefit to colloidal silver. Only a considerable risk. So colloidal silver is another nope!
Myth #10: Grapefruit OilWhat is it about grapefruit that brightens a bad mood? If it didn’t upset my stomach, I’d eat it every morning. Grapefruit reminds me of relaxing mornings with family and sunny summer days.
Bust: Limonene = IrritatingThere’s really no reason to try to incorporate grapefruit oil into your skincare routine.
Grapefruit oil contains limonene, the same compound found in lemongrass, which causes irritation. Irritation equals inflammation, and this is the key thing to avoid in proper skincare.
Grapefruit has a great aroma and excellent health benefits, but when it comes to skincare, let’s leave it out and move on to better ingredients!
Some Good News, Finally.
Somewhere, somehow, the myth of “natural = good” was born and believed. It grew so much that now large corporate brands are hopping on the natural bandwagon to some degree. And it's not because they see these claims as valid, believe me. It’s because they’ll be left behind the competition if they don’t put the “natural” jargon on their packaging. This only perpetuates the myth. Then myth perpetuates the demand.
The good news is that there are credible clinical trials and academic studies to steer us straight, and I’m delighted to share them with you!
So that’s one more trend debunked. Here’s my bottom line. I think that any skincare brand should have one mission: to deliver proven beneficial and non-irritating ingredients with nothing else. And we, the consumers, should expect nothing more and accept nothing less!
Sources:
Contact Dermatitis Journal, Volume 58, April 2008
Contact Dermatitis, Volume 63, Issue 5, November 2010, Pages: 277–283
Paula’s Choice Ingredient Dictionary
Future Derm, Ingredients, Peppermint
The New England Journal of Medicine, N Engl J Med 2007; 356:479-485, February 1, 2007
Chemical Research in Toxicology, Chem. Res. Toxicol., 2008, 21 (3), pp 696–704
Photodermatoses, Dr. Dr Michelle Wright, Dr Hannah Gronow, 704 (v24), 20 January 2015
University of Maryland Medical Centre, Photodermatitis, March 2015
A review of commercial essential oils as potential antimicrobials to treat skin diseases, Ané Orchard, Sandy van Vuuren
Phytomedicine, Issue 3, 2002
Flavor and Fragrance Journal, Volume 30, Issue 5, September 2015, Pages: 392–398
International Journal of Dermatology, Volume 51, July 2012
Lansdown AB (2006), "Silver in health care: antimicrobial effects and safety in use", Current Problems in Dermatology, 33: 17–34.
Rosenman KD, Moss A, Kon S (June 1979), Argyria: clinical implications of exposure to silver nitrate and silver oxide, Journal of Occupational and Environmental Medicine. 21 (6): 430–435.
Food and Chemical Toxicology, Volume 50, March 2012
Jitka S. Hansen, Journal of Immunotoxicology, Limonene and its ozone-initiated reaction products attenuate allergic lung inflammation in mice, Volume 13, Issue 6; 2016
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